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The welcome of the Sicily: the ferries.
Between the blue transparency of the sky and the sea, on the background of the Peloritani Mounts that they give the Antennamare degrades until the tip of the beacon to mirror of its falcato port, is Messina, the Queen of the Strait. Of forehead to it one of the hugest panoramas of the world is opened. E' the city that in order before the welcome of the Sicily gives to who comes from the continent.
The strait of Messina is wide 3km. The point of departure for the traversata one that it comes from Italy is Saint Villa Giovanni. Several ships ferries make of the shuttles transporting persons, trains, car and goods. The duration of the crossed one is of approximately 30 minuteren and is one show to see in this slice of sea the slow one to intercross of floating to the search everyone of its final goal.
The Strait of Messina (locally said u Strittu - the Strait) called in the Tight antiquity of Squill, Fretum Siciliae or Faro of Messina, is an arm of sea that connects the mar Ionian with the mar Tyrrhenian and that, separating (is also marginally) the two cities of Messina and Reggio Calabria with the respective city areas, separates the Sicily from the Calabria, therefore from peninsular Italy and the continent.
Of six hours in six hours the Strait is covered alternatively from one current produced from the tendency to the levelling of the Tyrrhenian sea with the Ionian one.
One of the more unusual aspects of the Strait is that it exists a perennial unevenness between waters of Ionian and the those of the Tyrrhenian one, that it diminishes as is approached to us the point of contact of the two river basins, where naturally is cancelled. When the waters to North of the “saddleback” on the Ganzirri line - Tip Piece is in phase of high tide, those to south of the same line is in phase of low tide: the tirreniche waters riversano then in the Ionian one overwhelming such unevenness, and the current in direction north-south that derives from this phenomenon is defined “coming down”.The coming down flow of ribalta the situation, raising the surface of the ionic river basin that, caught up a determined level, stretches to riversarsi newly in Tyrrhenian through the Ganzirri-Tip line the Piece. This current that crosses the Strait in direction South-North is said “mounting”.
The contemporary presence of two opposite currents is one of the elements that the Strait of difficult interpretation renders, is that it must be crossed in boat that - to greater reason - to swim.
And therefore the ferry does not cover all the distance with the same prow, but as soon as left large tacking to sea stretches to carry out one towards right in order better to cross the currents of the strait and to resume the way towards Messina to prow invert.
As soon as the ship receives vagoni of the train or the cars on the appropriate hit areas and' from the voices of the manovratori that launch in dialetto warnings and communications receive to you in their world, in their way to be and in the heat that their earth has to it trasfuso.
And when the crew is in place of maneuver, they continue… “attention, you come to straight, lever the breast rudder, put in means”, begins therefore a driven in talk between commander and helmsman until feeling the scricchiolio of rejecting of wood to the mooring.
Increasing of the wander of the ferry, intense and powerful, informs to you that the ship has left the dock of Villa and is the moment for the passenger of being able to go up on the bridge. In order to make it tight corridors are covered and smelling of sea, through ladders that remember you the old boat vessels and, finally on the bridge to the open air can be admired wonderful scenes and scents that only the strait of Messina knows to prepare in every moment. The currents that overlap in the sea seem to emanate the strongest energy that the old history of sea remember you tied to squill and cariddi. Suddenly, dipped in the sea and the vastness of the orizzonre, the scent of the coffee is hidden and the olfatto one caress you. And it takes one wants to taste it to you and you put yourself to the search of the bar, hidden between thousands knows them rooms, like if you tried your oasis of salvation.
To the end it finds it and while tastes the exciting sapore of the coffee, is the look that the olfatto one viengono hit from a tray place on the bench of the bar: they are the arancini that they prevail majestic and inviting like described in the pages of “Montalbano” of Camilleri.
The thirty minuteren that are necessary for the crossed one pass fast like the wind that grazes your ace and when less you the aspects the ferry enters in the port of Messina and “the Madonna of the letter” and' before that you receives you benedice opening the vision of the a lot and of its colors lives to us and phrenetic. And it is then that, when the Madonnina is caught a glimpse that supervises on the port, is tried a strange excitation, that one of the explorer that shows oneself on one new earth, mysterious and unfathomable.
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The arancini.
Arancini or the arancine of rice often represent the first gastronomico encounter with the sicialian kitchen, where the road food comes offered to all the hours from friggitorie, furnaces and stalls. The arancini, it inspires you to the citruses in the aspect and in the name, happiest synthesis of the several historical infuences is one presents in the area: that Arab for the rice and saffron, that French for the ragů, that Spanish for the tomato and that Greek for the cheese.
This food would be been born some in the convents second, for others inside of the baronial houses, while there is who would make them to derive from the tradition of the popular kitchen, where the remainders of a lunch came recycle to you in fantasioso and gustoso way.
Many is the versions of the arancini (to male to Catania) or the arancine (to the feminine one to Palermo). These farcite balls of rice can be fried or to the furnace (if wrapped from a paste layer leaf through). Shape and dimension vary also for. To Palermo considerable size and tondeggianti are introduced of, in the contained catanese more with shapes that identify the filling:
- flat base and tip to ogive with the meat gravy;
- round with the butter;
- ovoidale with pollo or spinaci. Often in the catanese area the not dealt rice é with saffron, but turns out white man or takes a light one.
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Satellite view of the strait
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Popular myths
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Between the more popular myths we can cite Scilla and Cariddi that are situated in the Strait, that is on the point of obliged passage of the navigating antichi, than from Greece they wanted to make sail for Cuma.
In the Odissea di Omero we find the first description of they:
Scilla is an atrocious monster, that it barks orribilmente and ringhia, localized on one scoglio of one high cliff one hundred meters in the tip calabra. E' fortified of 12 feet and 6 necks overs-measure to you, carrying everyone a guarnita monstrous head from a triple turn of teeth sharpens to you. Such monster, cannibal, dark cavern inhabits one from which the sporge head trying eagerly the preda. Between the grinfie of the monster 6 companions of Ulisse perish.
Cariddi, to a sol trar of arc of Squill, as Omero says, is the other orribile monster that three times swallows waters of the sea and three times muggiti reject to them with, mail under the Peloro Cape.
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The Madonna of the letter
(female saint of the city)
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According to a devout tradition, Saint Paul, in the course of its peregrinations for the Mediterranean to the time of Rome in order to diffuse the Good Novel, would be landed in year 41 d. C. to Messina, city already then a lot flourishing from the economic point of view thanks to its port.
Here it, preaching the Christian doctrine, would have inflamed endured the hearts of many messinesi and, between they, of the city Senators of the time, which, known from the Apostle of People of the existence, to Gerusalemme, of the Mother of the Getlteman, decided endured of recarvisi in order to ask its blessing on the City.
The Madonna wrote of its fist and delivered to the messinesi ambassadors a Letter, in which Ella benediceva the City and its inhabitants and delivered up its perpetual Protecting one. L'8 september of the 42 d.C the ship brought the ambassadors in the city of the Strait with the Letter of Maria, than the same Celestial sender it had rolled up and legacy with some of its hats. According to a legend, Maria would have the chosen of being the landlady of the messinesi and not contrary. This tradition has contributed a lot to radicare in the city the mariano cult.
Latin: “Vos et ipsam Civitatem benedicimus”
English: “To bless you and your City”
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Historical signals on the ferries
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The exact name of these boats in origin was “Piropontone”. The meant one of the word, would have to be: car steamboat propulsion - governabile car, equipped of bridge fortified of tracks in order to concur the transport of railway vehicles.
In 1881, the engineer Antonio Calabretta introduced a first plan of ship ferry, inspired to “ferry boats” already in service in the Countries of the Europe North, in a position to transporting railway wagons between the two sides of the Strait of Messina.
Twelve years, the Italian Society of the Roads Shod of the Sicily passed, with RD of the 23-11-1893 (3) obtained in concession the service of traghettamento of railway wagons between the two rivers of the Strait, with it obligation to execute two race every day between Messina and Reggio and, not as soon as inaugurated the new shod line Eboli-Reggio, others two race between Messina and Villa S. Giovanni.
Consequently, they came commissions the first two to you “piropontoni to wheels” (whose cost turned out of 430,000 Liras everyone), for whose construction, unfortunately, two years were necessary others. The first one “ferry” to catch up Messina (2 August 1896) was the Squill, but only 1° November 1899, the Cariddi binoculars could inaugurate the service of traghettamento of vagoni railway between the Continent and the Sicily, from Reggio Calabria to Messina, because the cradles had been completed with delay.
In the first three years of life, but, the two ships did not remain inactive, but intensely they were used for the transport of passengers and collettame between the two sides of the Strait and hoisting also the burgee of the service mail them.
In 1905, while the Railroads Sicialian passed to the State, it entered more in function close port of call than Villa S. Giovanni and the yards delivered two new wheel ferries, the Calabria and the Sicily, that they will be radiati respective in 1927 and 1933.
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